This week, we embarked on an unforgettable adventure into the heart of Los Tuxtlas, Veracruz, with students from UTSA and Alamo Colleges, to study regenerative agriculture in Mexico and witness the transformative power of nature-based solutions firsthand as part of the Coalition for Regenerative Ecology & Agriculture Program.
We arrived in the midst of one of the hottest and longest droughts in Mexico's history, a stark reminder of the urgency to regenerate not only the soil but also watersheds, ecosystems, and entire communities on a global scale. Nature, it seems, is calling for our attention, and we answered that call in a land where ancient civilizations once thrived on deep reservoirs of natural diversity and abundance.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by Antonio Carillo Bolea of Estampa Verde and Vetiver Roots Technology, who whisked us across the shimmering waters of the Sontecomapan Lagoon in a 20-minute boat ride to Los Amigos, where the lush tropical rainforest meets the Gulf of Mexico.
This region is special, marking the northernmost edge of the tropical rainforest in continental America, a landscape where the ancient Olmec civilization’s history intertwines with the stories of pirate treasure and Spanish conquest.
Our journey began along the coastline, 20 miles north in panga boats, a stretch of land brimming with hidden treasures. We cruised past unique microclimates, marveling at the scale of basalt cliffs towering over us like a scene from Jurassic Park. Pristine beaches welcomed us with freshwater springs that seemed almost otherworldly, and we ventured into coastal caves, exploring like modern-day adventurers. After a full day of discovery, we found ourselves lounging on the hot sands of La Barra, where time seemed to stand still.
That evening, we were treated to a fandango, a cultural celebration of Veracruz’s rich musical and dance traditions. More than just a lively gathering, the fandango holds deep cultural significance in the region, a communal event where traditional Son Jarocho music and dance keep the stories of the past alive. These gatherings once unified communities, and today, they connect us to the rhythms of both the land and its people.
As a group, we would engage in "sobremesas", or table conversations each night from here on out. Students would then have free time to reflect and write during the evenings.
Over the next few days, our focus shifted to understanding ecosystem services, the essential, life-sustaining roles that natural ecosystems play. Healthy, functioning ecosystems form the foundation of all civilizations, past and present, and are the bedrock of regenerative agriculture. In Los Tuxtlas, this lesson comes to life in extraordinary ways.
We hiked through the renowned UNAM Biological Research Station, led by Santiago Cinanca, a native of Los Tuxtlas, whose passion for the land was palpable. This research center is not only a biological treasure trove but also a living library of biodiversity. It plays a critical role in preserving the natural wealth of Mexico’s rainforests, acting as a sanctuary for countless species. As we ventured deeper into the jungle, we witnessed first-hand the delicate balance between conservation and cutting-edge research, reminding us of the intricate web of life that sustains this unique habitat.
The Olmec civilization once flourished in this region, leaving behind a cultural and historical legacy that echoes through the centuries. However, the Spanish conquest brought significant changes, leading to the erosion of indigenous practices and the introduction of agricultural systems that have, over time, contributed to the loss of biodiversity. The once-abundant natural landscape has suffered from deforestation and unsustainable farming practices, making efforts to regenerate the land more vital than ever.
Later in the week, we visited Estampa Verde’s new headquarters in Pozolapan, where Antonio and Luis are collaborating with the UNAM Architecture Department on an ecologically conscious design for their native Melipona bee project. The Melipona bees, a stingless species native to Mexico, are vital pollinators with a rich cultural and ecological history. Their honey has been revered for its medicinal properties for centuries, used by indigenous communities to treat wounds, respiratory issues, and even gastrointestinal disorders. Preserving these bees is not just an ecological imperative; it’s a nod to the wisdom of Mexico’s ancestors.
Antonio also showed us the Tithonia and Vetiver systems he’s planted on contour. Tithonia, the native Mexican sunflower, is drought-resistant and packed with nutrients, making it an excellent forage for livestock. Meanwhile, Vetiver is a powerhouse of erosion control, increasing water infiltration, and restoring degraded landscapes. These systems represent the future of regenerative agriculture, working in harmony with nature to rebuild soils, restore the hydrological cycle, and offer farmers a path to resilience amidst climate challenges.
One of the week's highlights was harvesting Melipona bees from traps set months earlier in the jungle by Antonio and Luis. The project, supported by John and Duang Hanesworth from San Antonio’s Big Grass Living, is helping to restore native bee populations while teaching locals how to incorporate ecologically sound practices into their agriculture.
Later, we visited Jesus and Carmita’s ranch near Santiago Tuxtla, where the stark contrast between sustainable and conventional ranching became painfully clear.
Despite the region’s record-breaking drought, the Tithonia Jesus had planted on contour, with help from the Sustainable Livestock Network (ReGaSo), provided the only forage for his cattle.
Students were stunned to see Jesus’ cattle grazing contentedly while, just across the fence, buzzards circled the carcasses of dead livestock in barren paddocks. This scene was a powerful reminder of the life-or-death importance of regenerative agriculture in a rapidly changing climate.
On the return we stopped at some tobacco producing farms in the Matacapan Valley to see the large-scale impact that keyline vetiver systems can have in mitigating crop loss, erosion, pollution, and increasing infiltration. You can watch Antonio's video about this particular project, and the methods they use below.
Back in Sontecomapan, some students explored the mangroves by boat, observing the delicate ecosystems that support countless species, while others ventured into the mountains on a quest to spot the elusive Tuxtlas Quail Dove. Though the bird remained hidden, the journey deepened our appreciation for the patience and respect that birding requires.
Meanwhile, at Los Amigos, Doña Isabela showed the students how to make yogurt from fresh, raw milk produced right on the farm, offering them a hands-on lesson in traditional dairy craftsmanship.
Other students and professors collected game cameras we had set out days before, where a stream of spring flow meets the lagoon, excited to discover photos of many birds and mammals captured in their natural habitats, doing their thing.
As our week in Los Tuxtlas drew to a close, we reflected on the incredible blend of history, ecology, and cultural richness we’d experienced. From early morning yoga sessions to setting up trail cameras that captured glimpses of elusive wildlife, every moment felt connected to the larger story of regeneration of the land, of communities, and of our relationship with the natural world.
Our final hands-on project was digging up Vetiver and expanding a chinampa nursery by the lagoon, envisioning a future where sustainable practices not only restore ecosystems but also provide food and livelihoods in harmony with nature.
With the vibrant calls of the Chachalacas echoing through the morning air, it was time to leave Los Tuxtlas. But this is a place that leaves a mark on our minds, in our hearts, and our vision for the future of regenerative agriculture.
Onward to Oaxaca and Tierra Blanca. The journey continues.
This is a 4 part series
Comments