Leaving the heat of northern Oaxaca behind, the CREA group headed for Huatusco and soon found ourselves immersed in cool, misty cloud forests in the shadow of Pico de Orizaba. We had arrived at Las Cañadas Bosque de Niebla, a project that has inspired countless conservationists and permaculturists for over two decades.
Founded by Ricardo Romero, this project became Mexico’s first private conservation easement and stands as an icon of regenerative practices.
Upon our arrival in the pouring rain, we were immediately struck by the organic beauty of the main buildings, reminiscent of Gaudi’s flowing architectural style. The structures seemed to blend seamlessly into the surrounding landscape, making it clear that Las Cañadas’ commitment to regeneration extends beyond just the environment, it influences the design of everyday life here.
Las Cañadas is a model of regeneration at every level. Environmental, social, economic, and even spiritual. The community’s educational programs attract visitors from all over the world to learn about their approach, which integrates countless systems: from their biointensive gardens and rainwater harvesting to their silvopasture systems and renowned seed bank.
Ricardo began by telling us the story of Las Cañadas' transformation. 30 years ago, he purchased the land when it was mostly degraded cattle pasture, with very little vegetation remaining. His first step was to remove the cattle, not because he was against livestock, but because the land needed time to rest and heal.
What struck me most was Ricardo's honesty about the challenges they faced. He often spoke of early failures, or ideas that didn’t work out and needed rethinking. But the passion in his eyes told us everything. Even after almost 30 years, Ricardo’s dedication to this place burns as brightly as it did on day one.
I have included photos below of the organizational structure of the cooperative model.
At the heart of Las Cañadas is a commitment to the principles of permaculture. As Ricardo explained, permaculture is not just a method for growing food but a way of thinking of problem-solving by considering all the complex interconnections in any given system. For those unfamiliar, permaculture's core principles guide everything at Las Cañadas.
It is my opinion that if we approached every problem in society using the permaculture principles, the world would be a much better place. I encourage you to employ them into your next tough decision making process and see how much more holistic your approach and solution will be.
The Permaculture Ethics and Design Principles.
1. Observe and Interact: The first step is always observation. Understanding how the natural systems function allows us to interact harmoniously with them.
2. Catch and Store Energy: Whether it's sunlight, water, or human labor, storing energy when it’s abundant ensures survival during leaner times.
3. Obtain a Yield: Every system should produce something tangible, whether it's food, energy, or knowledge to support those involved.
4. Apply Self-Regulation and Accept Feedback: As Ricardo himself often admitted with a smile, not every idea works the first time. It's essential to learn from failures and adapt.
5. Use and Value Renewable Resources: Everything at Las Cañadas revolves around renewable resources, from compost, to rainwater catchment systems to hardwoods.
6. Produce No Waste: Nutrient cycling is key here. Every output, from compost to gray water, is reused.
7. Design from Patterns to Details: Observing large-scale patterns before focusing on the fine details ensures that systems are robust and resilient.
8. Integrate Rather than Segregate: Every part of the system works together—from the cooperative members growing food to the mushroom cultivation team contributing to both nutrition and income.
9. Use Small, Slow Solutions: Starting small and scaling gradually ensures that systems can grow sustainably.
10. Use and Value Diversity: Biodiversity is the foundation of resilience, as seen in their agroforestry systems, coffee plantation, and seed bank.
11. Use Edges and Value the Marginal: The edges between ecosystems, such as where forests meet fields, are often the most productive areas.
12. Creatively Use and Respond to Change: Flexibility in adapting to changing conditions, whether environmental or social, ensures long-term survival.
Silvopasture and Agroecological systems are key practices at Las Cañadas, integrating livestock grazing with forestry to enhance both soil health and biodiversity. As we explored the silvopasture systems on the property, we saw how grazing cattle between rows of trees, fruit trees, forage trees, and even hardwoods contribute to soil regeneration. The trees provide shade for the animals and protect the soil, while the animals, in turn, help build biomass and improve the microbiome of the soil.
It’s a cyclical system that mimics the natural processes found in healthy ecosystems, and it’s central to Ricardo’s vision of regenerative agriculture. As Ricardo explained, "Everything here is about nutrient cycling." This couldn’t be more evident than in the silvopasture systems, which are designed to build organic matter in the soil and support a wide variety of plant and animal life.
One of the hidden gems at Las Cañadas is their renowned seed library, an invaluable resource for preserving plant genetics in a time when agricultural diversity is under threat. This isn’t just a collection of seeds, it’s a living repository of resilience, ensuring that local and regional crops remain adapted to their environments, even as climate conditions shift.
The seed library plays a critical role in safeguarding biodiversity, offering a lifeline for crops that might otherwise be lost to changing ecosystems or market pressures. It also supplies farmers with a broad array of varieties that can thrive without the need for heavy chemical inputs, furthering the regenerative mission.
We visited their coffee plantation, a new experiment at Las Cañadas. Ricardo explained how they’ve cleared certain areas to plant coffee on contour, maximizing its growth potential while maintaining the integrity of the forest. This agroforestry approach offers a potential income stream while preserving the surrounding ecosystem, a delicate balance of economy and ecology.
At the biointensive garden we learned about nutrient cycling and soil health.
At the dairy, we learned about their milk and cheese production, which has evolved over the years. Students even got to participate in some of the processes, from milking the cows to understanding the challenges of running a small dairy operation in a regenerative system.
Every morning, the cooperative members greeted us with smiles, ready to contribute to the shared mission. The sense of community here is palpable, and it’s one of the things that makes Las Cañadas so special. Whether it was the cooks cooking meals from food grown on-site or the younger members planting seeds in the greenhouse to ensure that next season there would be seedlings to plant, everyone’s work is an essential part of the whole.
Another key component of Las Cañadas is the nature-based school that Ricardo’s wife, Tania, runs for the children of the cooperative. This is not your typical classroom setting. The children are immersed in the natural world around them, learning to care for the land, understand ecosystems, and develop practical skills in growing food, managing livestock, and crafting with natural materials. This hands-on, nature-based education model is a reflection of the holistic values that guide the entire community. Here, education goes beyond textbooks, it’s about teaching the next generation to live harmoniously with the environment.
One of the highlights of our time at Las Cañadas was the presence of Ernesto Inzunza, a biology professor from the University of Jalapa, and good friend of Dr. Smith. It just so happens, that Ernesto was instrumental in helping Las Cañadas achieve its status as Mexico’s first private conservation easement through his work with ProNatura, a nonprofit dedicated to conservation.
Ernesto and Ricardo share a deep friendship built on their mutual love for the land and their vision for its future. Watching them interact, two pioneers of conservation and regeneration, was truly inspiring. Together, they are ensuring that the forest and its biodiversity will be protected for generations to come.
Ernesto and Dr. Smith led a day of bird banding near the food forest. Bird banding is a critical conservation tool that helps scientists track migration patterns, study population dynamics, and assess the health of ecosystems.
Over two days, we set up mist nets and recorded data on dozens of species passing through the cloud forest. It was incredible to witness field science in action, and everyone—students, community members, and even the kitchen staff got involved.
Bird banding is not just about cataloging species; it’s about understanding the intricate connections between ecosystems and the animals that inhabit them, providing crucial data for conservation efforts.
As the days wound down, the rains would roll in, bringing a peaceful quiet to the evenings. Students found solace in the cozy library, where they could read, reflect, and work on their projects. The library is one of the hidden gems of Las Cañadas, housing books on everything from permaculture to local flora and fauna.
This time of introspection allowed everyone to process the profound experiences we’d had. It’s one thing to visit a place as a tourist, but quite another to be immersed in it, to see its challenges and triumphs firsthand, and to connect deeply with the people and the land.
Las Cañadas is far more than a regenerative farm or conservation project, it is a living, breathing testament to what is possible when humans and nature work in harmony. It challenges conventional thinking and invites us to dream of a world where abundance is not a goal, but a reality built through patience, dedication, and a love for the land.
For the students on this trip, this was not a superficial experience. They were exposed to the complexities of ecosystem collapse, the struggles of land conservation, and the promise of regenerative agriculture. This was not a tourist trip, but a deep dive into the richness of Mexico’s natural and cultural heritage, and a powerful reminder of how much we have to learn from places like this.
As our time at Las Cañadas came to a close, there was a collective sense of awe at all that we had experienced. From working in the food forest, to morning hikes observing mushrooms sprout from forest floors, it was clear that every inch of this land held lessons for those willing to look closely.
The warmth of the co-op members, the depth of knowledge shared by Ricardo and Tania, and the wisdom Ernesto brought from his decades of conservation work created an environment that was not only educational but also deeply nurturing.
As we packed up our things and prepared to head to our next destination, Coatepec, there was a bittersweet feeling in the air. Leaving behind the mist-covered hills, the laughing children at Tania’s school, and the rhythmic sounds of the gardens felt like saying goodbye to a place that had become part of us. But the lessons we learned, the bonds we formed, and the inspiration we gained would undoubtedly stay with us long after we left the cloud forest.
Las Cañadas had shown us what is possible when people come together with a shared vision of regeneration, not only for the land but for society. And as we ventured onward, the spirit of that place traveled with us, a quiet reminder that we too can be stewards of the earth, wherever we go.
This is a 4 part series
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